NOMA - (Copenhagen, Denmark)

 Many people might have heard that in a slightly controversially compiled restaurants list,  NOMA was named consecutively as the No. 1 restaurant in the world on a Pellegrino’s Restaurant guide.  I was partially interested but I wasn’t going to fly in all the way to another continent to eat there either,  but since I was going pass Switzerland anyway after winning some Air Tickets from Peninsula Hotel HK,   I thought I will try to land a table if I can.  I also happened to have visited the so-called No.2 Restaurant at El Celler de Can Roca some time ago just because it was close-by enough to my planned journey,  which was great but not entirely perfect either.     I travelled to Denmark for my first time late last year and it wasn’t a culinary trip from my side,  I didn’t do any other fine dinings.   I just ate local open Smorrebrod sandwiches and went to Tivoli theme park,  ate some chips and hot dogs and even had mozzarella balls at Burger King.    The Michelin inspector once again decided to omit awarding NOMA the top 3 stars rating in it’s guide book.  Perhaps this indifference in rating reflects the underlying shift in paradigm on global eating trends?   Fine Dining is being phased out,  haute cuisine in definition is becoming replaced with eating out and exploring local foods as the next big wave thingy?   To me,  I never ever thought for once that NOMA got to where it became this day because it redefined Nordic cuisine -  I was pretty sure that if Chef Rene was born in Hong Kong or in Australia he could easily replicate a similar experience using the same mentality of approach and carrying a coherent central theme adapting to local ingredients.   In a Chinese proverbial saying,  it is all about 天時地理人和.   A lot of luck and chances are created by yourself within your confined potentials and geography.  In terms of food,  local produce matters definitely but it’s how you go about approaching and re-defining them!

 

 

We recall having seen that guy sitting right next to the pole featuring on TV before -
It turned out it was the super talented young Swedish chef Magnus Nilsson,  from Faviken…
I would love to visit his restaurant 1 day and I heard it’s cold up there where his restaurant is located.

 

Some million year old Obelisk outside next door -

Lunch and Dinner Courses are the same -  DKK 1,500 for roughly 26-28 Courses
That’s under HKD 2,000.  We thought this was an absolute bargain.  Except it’s located on the other side of the world and booking for a table here was an absolute nightmare,  involving hundreds of calls and more than 2,000 mouse clicks from three months in advance and to the precise minute...  

 

 

 

Copenhagen purified Water -
There is no bottled mineral waters here,  their eating from local terroir mentality expanded into their installation of a super sophisticated Filtering System for purifying the local water for consumption.   Instead of Carlsberg beer you will be drinking Denmark’s finest water!  A number of restaurants in the world have also started adopting this approach,  including Marque’s in Sydney

 

 

 

Nice Warm Towel !

 

 

Malt Twigs with Juniper -
Pretty.  The 1st course was already set on your table before you knew about it..









They have a Juice Bar here…
You can order it for food pairing too.  To me I don’t give a damn. 
Wine is juice to me.  Juice is too sweet to pair with food usually from my viewpoint?

 

 

Lichen Moss & Cep Porcini -
Part of the multiple starter snacks which suddenly arrives in multiple succession in rapid fire mode ~  8/10

 

 

 

Alsace Julien Meyer,  Nature Biodynamic Organic Pinot Blanc -
Their all natural scheme continues with water,  then wine.
I really respect this approach and consistency.

 

 

 

Fried Pork Rind and Blackcurrant -
The texture is unlike the crispy bar snack pork rinds,  but were bubbly just like the Filipino versions of Chicharron instead…   ~  8/10

 

 

 

Danish local Blue Mussel & Celery -
There is a twist to this dish.  I will let you find out but I liked it,  just wished I could have 6 of these rather than just 1.   It also reminds me of a dish I had in San Sebastian,  Spain at Akelarre.   ~  9/10

 

A Cheese Cookie with Rocket -
The tin arrives being more than half empty.   In a way I respect the kitchen for serving it like this and I suspect they wanted to make you feel like you’ll be fighting for the last pieces?  How fun is that?   Mandarin Grill in HK also serves a similar dish.

 

 

Fried Potato with Duck Liver mousse and Black Trumpet powder -
This was so similar to the above Moss & Cep starter…   I began to worry as it was getting a little repetitive already so quickly.  Call it a hunch!  ~  7/10

 

 

 

Local Fjordrejer Prawn with Shell-On,  Served Alive -
The guy on the next table picked up his prawn and it became so jumpy,  I saw him dropped it onto the table in front of his date.   Mine shrimp was equally naughty and was flipping about like it’s doing rapid-mode Bruce Lee sit ups,  and did I eat it alive?  No I can’t.  I found it a bit cruel to bite on a live prawn especially with their shell on.  The brown butter dip also wasn’t very detectable in taste.   I ended up eating it Mr Bean’s style,  throwing the frigging thing onto the wooden table to kill it,  not.  I used a knife in a civilised way to cut off it’s head.  ~  6/10 

 

 

 

The Japanese also eat 踊り live prawns -
But at least they kill it first and de-shell them.   How would you feel if I ATE you alive?

 

 

Dehydrated and Smoked Carrot,  sitting in Hay Ash and dipped in Sorrel sauce -
For a so-called no. 1 restaurant in the world,  I don’t know if I sound harsh to say this dish really didn’t do anything for me in terms of learning.   I could have made this myself and probably better.  The taste was good though but …  ~  6/10

 

 

Pickled and Smoked Quail Eggs served in Hay -
Nothing too special as the taste was good enough but I have had better versions of the same elsewhere definitely!   Couldn’t taste much of the pickling or smokiness promised.  ~  7/10

 

 

 

Baby Radish in Malt & Beer soil and Sheep’s Milk yoghurt -
I liked this but I have seen this so many times,  I don’t know who 1st invented it.  May be it needed more beer to convince me?    ~ 7/10

 

 

 

Crispy Toast,  with Smoked Cod Roe dots,  local Herbs and Dried Duck Stock Croustillant -
This was quite good but the cod roe and duck stock component weren’t too apparent,  but the herbs really stood out instead.  ~ 8/10

 

 

 

Fried Veal Neck fibers,  Crème Fraiche and Seaweed Oil -
This was the 3rd dish which arrived looking like a toilet brush.  I really liked this mind you,  but can’t help notice NOMA seems to like serving sponge-looking foods!  ~  8/10

 

 

 

Æbleskiver and Muikku -
A traditional beignet like dessert is re-interpreted,  speared in the middle is a Muikku fresh water fish from Finland which is smoked and pickled.  In the middle was also pickled melon.  This was my favourite dish for the day but only because I like sweet and savoury dishes in 1 bite.  ~  9/10

 

 

 

Sorrel Leaves wrapped with Fermented Cricket Paste,  and Nasturtium snow -
Sorrel is already making a 2nd appearance.   And fermented crickets sounded a bit too trying hard?   Or I am not open minded enough myself? ~  7/10

 

 

 

New Danish Potatoes in Buttery sauce & Smoked Wood,  Glazed Swedish Snails with Watercress & Parsley Puree,   a sprig of Local Herbs for spearing at the food -
Failing to see the relation between 2 completely different dishes.   Individually I did enjoyed them.  ~  7/10

 

 

 

Sourdough bread made from Nordic wheat,  with Lard spread with Apple Snaps and fried Pork Skin and Potatoes,  and virgin Patrik Johansson butter -
Really lovely bread with a crisp exterior and tasty centre.  Surprisingly,  both the butter and the very popular lard spread wasn’t as good and flavourful as the ones I have eaten in London’s Viajante 1*  or at Copenhagen’s Open Sandwich shop at Aamanns.  ~  8.5/10

 

 

 

Forest Ants Paste,  Milk Curd,  Blueberry Preserves and Lemon Thyme herbs -
NOMA used to serve live walking forest ants on a dessert dish,  but nowadays this is made into a paste,  talk about a protein supplement!   The milk curd unfortunately wasn’t very apparent in taste compared to say the one I ate in London’s The Ledbury.   Blueberry is such a Danish fruit to be used,  although up further north Lingonberries are probably more the norm.   ~  7/10

 

 

 

More Burgs -

 

 

 

Local Sea Urchins with Grilled Cucumber Granite,  Dill & Cream -
This was easily the worst dish of the day.  Everything came still stuck frozen to the plate,  I had to wait for around 5-10 minutes for it to defrost.   And there wasn’t much sweetness taste either compared to say Japanese Hokkaido urchins partially because they were served so cold.  ~  4/10

 

 

Local Brown Crab,  Pickled Crab Roe,  Cured Egg Yolk, 
Lemon Verbena and Sul Seaweed Sauce with local herbs -
It was sweet and the slightly coddled egg yolk was fun when eating with the crab coral as they were similar yet different.  Thought the GREEN SAUCES AND HERBS are getting a little repetitive here..  ~  7/10

 

 

 

Switching to a Sparkling Water -
Just to see the difference between the sparkling and non-sparkling water’s taste.

 

 

 

Grilled Beetroot and Dried Plum, with a Fennel and Lemon Verbena sauce. 
Tasted almost like Vegetarian jerky.  ~ 8/10

 

 

 

Native Local Limfjord Oyster  (same as French Belon) -
Served with some Air Onion, young plums and oyster white wine juice.  This sounded so exciting but the oyster’s taste was significantly less than what you expect from a normal Belon.   In fact my subsequent re-taste of Limfjords elsewhere in a seafood market myself was as good as French Belons,  slightly copper-like but with a more creamier body.   This one was only ok in comparison.  ~  6.5/10

 

Pine Needle Roasted Cauliflower with Pine Oil Powder & Oil, 
Horseradish Crème and Whey Sauce-
This was a lovely dish and I have had a similar inspired dish at London’s Viajante.   So fragrant and simple yet sophisticated.  ~  9/10

 

 

Pike Perch in Burnt Cabbage,  with Fish Bone Foam,  Lemon Verbena & Dill Sauce -
Verbena has made about 3 appearances by now and so did Sorrel,  and everything looks green here and why I am posting this review on St Patrick’s Day.   Back to the taste,  this was very fragrant and the fish cooked perfectly,  with an appearance of at least 2 cabbage types.  ~  9/10

 

 

Hen’s Egg DIY -
A hot plate is presented to the customer with a timer.  You add in some Hay Oil,  Garlic Herbs,  Sorrel Sauce (yes Sorrel again),  with a bunch of local herbs which looks familiar with the above potatoes & escargot dish.  Topped with a potato crisp.   I really liked this dish but the greeness is getting to me.

 

 

Charcoal Roasted,  Wild Caught local Turbot -
With a bunch of young bitter greens and edible flowers.   Served in a mushrooms and berries broth.   ~  7/10   If you have noticed so far,   I have not had a single meat dish in my 20+ courses apart from some fried veal neck fibres.   I saw sweetbread being prepared upstairs in the kitchen,  I know people are eating Venison on the next table,  but somehow the kitchen decided to give out all Seafood and Green dishes to my table.  Mind you I love fish and we even had Pike Perch above already…  Where was my Smoked Bone Marrows,  Red Meat,  Guinea Fowl,  Wild Boar,  Sweet Bread,  Lamb or even a Bear or a Crocodile ?  

 

 

 

Dessert Wine -

 

 

 

Gammel Dansk Liquor,  Milk Meringue Crisps and Wood Sorrel -
It’s still green, and it’s still sorrel just a different type.   It also totally reminds me of a dessert at Quay,  Sydney.   I think NOMA is lucky that I also love green food enough already to tolerate it.

 

 

 

Potato Strips and Plum Jelly,  with Plum Seed Foam -
A dessert coming out from the No. 1 restaurant in the world.  I have the right to reserve my own final judgment,  but what do you think when seeing this as your ending NOMA dessert course ?   I am still undecided as to this day..

 

 

Yeast Dough Caramel bread,  with Sea Buckthorn Spread topped with
Whipped Skyr cream cheese,  and topped with Elderflower salt -
The best dessert definitely as it was local and thoughtful.  Really liked this one by far!

 

 

Petits Fours -
Some chocolate chips with fennel and candy sticks.

 

 

 

French Pressed,  Kenyan Single Origin coffee roasted by:  Estate Coffee -
More than one coffee sources have told me Nordic coffees were all about being French Pressed,  despite the Scandinavians winning several awards at the espresso based World Barista Championships.  NOMA sticks to this tradition and so did Coffee Collective when they came to brewing certain signature coffees.   The so-called lighter Nordic roasting style seems to have originated from their brewing style,  rather than their preferred roasting style??

 

 

Charcoal Bed installed externally,  for Charcoal Grilling and Roasting some dishes -
I respect this.  Many modern kitchens are happy to get away with electro-magnetic conductive heat,  sacrificing the radiant heat with good aroma from grilling with real charcoal or wood which creates a good crust and smokiness trait,  provided it’s not overly burnt.

 

 

Upstairs Prep Kitchen,  and also the Experimentation Kitchen -

 

 

Bar Area at NOMA -
I have read about here before we flew in from tens of thousands of miles away.   Obviously as with most haute cuisine meals,  the menu planning and experience can fluctuate each time as it works on almost a Japanese omakase system where dishes are planned for you in situ by the kitchen.   Personally the strongest point about eating here was that everything was creative and true to their intent of drinking and dining local,  which was eye opening in concept.   On the more critical side,  I was really surprised that they deemed it ok to completely omit any of their available meat dishes to us especially when some of these are their signature dishes,  they could have asked.    2ndly I really noticed a lot of repetitive elements in numerous courses and everything was green, sorrel or verbena,  and edible herbs.   Desserts in general were above-average today instead of being so convincing in terms of showcasing local Nordic movement.   I liked here more than I might have sounded in my summary above.   I also wish I could be given another few chances to dine out at here to check it’s consistency and when it feels like carrying a better menu planning!   Who’s ready to sponsor my next flight and hotel and make the next reservation for me,  and provide me some the Bone Marrow desserts and Flodeboller the next trip around? 

 

 

 

Price:   Around $1950 HKD before wine,  or DKK 1500.
Ease of Access:  3/5  Take a taxi,  only 10 minutes from city centre.
Food:  ♕♕♕♕ to ♕♕♕♕♕ 1/2

Opening Hours:
Tues to Sat 12:00pm - 14:00pm,   19:00pm – 00:30am
Address:  Strandgade 93, DK-1401 Copenhagen K
Ph: +45 3296 3297