Cars, Food and the Ladies of Hong Kong & Macau: Hoi King Heen 海景軒

Monday, April 21, 2014

Hoi King Heen 海景軒 – Epitomy of Chinese Cuisine

Hoi King Heen has been awarded Michelin 1* consecutively for a few years, and in the eyes of local foodies, Chef Leung and his Kitchen’s food was definitely worth much more in our hearts. I have covered it a few times on my website before, and as per usual I managed to conveniently skip posting up a few of my in-between visits. We were pretty stunned when Hoi King Heen lost their Michelin 1 Star status earlier this year, but we really love the food here as always (even if it can be inconsistent on occasions), and upon arriving for our Group Dinner, it was sad news to learn that Chef Leung will be taking a hiatus from the middle of May 2014. Local foodies will miss his creativity and very unique Chinese dishes.

Chili Sauce, White Baits X.O. Sauce, and some Appetizing Tofu -

瑪瑙牛筋片 – Beef Tendon Strips
A signature Appetizer here. Can’t find this anywhere else, this is like a Cantonese version of a French tendon terrine? It can be more beefier like previous visits. ~ 7/10

玫瑰花香燻帶子 - Smoked Scallops with Rose Petal
Tonight’s version was not smoky at all, just like one prior visit too. This used to be more smoky and together with the fried Rose Petals, can really bring out the best for the dish on the best day. Wished they can make it back to normal standards unlike recent visits definitely ~ 6.5/10

明爐腊腸卷 – Chinese Sausage stuffed in BBQ Char Siu Pork
This was well made as usual, it’s a creative combination of 2 flavours. I like the Pork Liver version better, and both have to be reserved in advance. ~ 9/10

鮮竹時蔬卷 – Bean Curd Sheet Wraps with Vegetables
An off-menu new dish, it’s healthy food executed well and can be a meal by itself! ~ 8/10

京式烤米鴨 Peking Duck – $580
Out comes the Famous Peking Duck from Hoi King Heen, although it’s my first time to have it after so many visits.

Peking Duck with Mandarin Crepes -
The Skin was marinated well and crispy. The meat had really strong duck taste for once, it was impressive to me. Apart from restaurants which do Peking Duck the traditional Beijing way, such as at Shatin 18, Mott 32, etc., Hoi King Heen’s version was definitely amongst the top elites in Hong Kong by any measurement. It can’t be faulted except for the non-Beijing carving technique ~ 8.5/10

四寶元肚竹絲雞湯 – Black Chicken & Glutinous Rice, stuffed in Pig’s Stomach & Soup
Takes a lot of manual effort to make this hybrid dish obviously. I don’t usually get concepts like these… It’s even more weirder than a TurDucKen for me, at least that is all poultry based.

The taste meanwhile was definitely unique again -
At least it shows someone is doing this quirky concept, and it was both drinkable and edible.. ~ 8/10

水晶牛肋肉 – Slow Braised Beef Ribs inside Poached Pear
2012 Award Winning dish. This was tender and the flavours just balanced. Way better than last time I ate this dish, when the pear was too sweet and the beef lacked taste. ~ 9/10

青翠白玉蔬 – Bamboo Pith, Mixed Mushrooms, Spinach Puree and Tofu in Vegetables Broth
This was a 2013 Award Winning dish. I think some of us didn’t really get it. Perhaps it needed more of a Vegetables puree or stronger Mushrooms aroma? It was more bland in taste than the recipe suggests ~ 6/10

菜片烤鴨崧 Shredded Duck Meat San Choi Bao - (Part of Peking Duck Courses above)
This was so strong and gamey, we were really astonished by this mainly because most San Choi Baos don’t have much taste after the mincing these days. This was definitely very excellent together with the slightly spicy, Chinese pickles. Really moreish and impressed   ~ 9/10

龍皇珊瑚煎米粉 – Scrambled Egg whites and Seafood on Fried Rice Vermicelli
The bottom of the noodles was still crispy, not so the top bit but is expected. This was light and elegant, a good dish to finish off the savory items.   Yet there’s 2 more intermittent courses to come beneath..   ~ 7/10

家鄉煎粉粿 – Fried Glutinous Dumplings
A Signature here that we have to order every single time because it’s the only one of it’s kind in this world, all other versions just aren’t the same with it’s balance.   The flavour has changed from slightly sweetish to more savory nowadays, with a variety of minced vegetables, nuts and meat inside the slightly sweetish glutinous rice skin.   It is definitely better than before personally when there were days when this tasted flatter. Not tonight fortunately… ~ 8.5/10

懷舊鹹魚包 – Salted Fish & Pork Bun
This dish used to be loved by some Chinese Emperors. Nowadays it has become difficult to find this bun anywhere else, but the Kitchen kindly made it for us on the night and shopped from their trusted supplier of quality salted fish. The Salted fish wasn’t overly salty as I feared, instead it carried a strong umami flavor but just right and not overly hardened in texture. This was super addictive stuff and the bun was also done right in texture for once unlike many other places. ~ 9/10

泮塘山楂卷 – Hawthorn Berry Roll
A variation to the traditional Black Sesame version. This was so refreshing and although I don’t usually criticize food based on colors, this really was visually stunning as a unique Cantonese dessert. ~ 9/10

椰汁紅豆糕 – Coconut and Red Bean Pudding
This on the other hand, is more a Run-of-the-Mill finishing desserts. But done decently just not too exciting anymore.

蛋白杏仁茶 – Chef Leung cooking his Almond Milk with Egg Whites for us
Really appreciate it and it might be the last time we get to taste it from his hands.
We will miss his food and definitely will try to come back before middle of May to have it again, before Chef Leung heads for a hiatus, or retirement! To me, his food and creativity, also sensibility, also friendliness, is why I look up to him so much. He is humble but boundary pushing aggressive yet balanced. If I had to live my life in a certain mode, I would like to follow his passive-aggressive mode of style. Please come back soon Chef Leung..