Friday, September 26, 2014

Le Dome de Cristal ( III ) - New French Chef from Guy Savoy

 Le Dome de Cristal in Hong Kong has recently recruited a new French Chef Charles-Benoit Lacour.  As the new Culinary Director behind this prestigious brand of Champagne Restaurant,    they are trying to push the food quality forward and make it comparable to the Michelin Starred Quality restaurants just as you will discover it in France.   Coming from the 2-3 Michelin Starred camp and background of Guy Savoy kitchens,  Chef Benoit’s food here was executed well indeed but I did sensed that it is taking time to build up the kitchen team behind and create enough synergy to carry it forward one step at a time.   It is definitely getting there,  plus this is not my first time of experiencing the Chef’s food in reality.  I have been to the previous Singapore Guy Savoy outlet and he made me one of the most memorable Game Meat and Truffle Tourte pie dishes ever.  And despite my previous meal being of my own adventurous and self-paid meal in Singapore,  this time it was by Invitation by the Ambroisia Group,  I hope my review can be of a Constructive Criticism and help push forward the HK Food movement.   



IMG_7981IMG_7982French Bordier butter -





IMG_7985Pretty good Bread Selections.  I loved the Tomato Bread but somehow think it was familiar from elsewhere too but can’t quite recall.  The mini Baguette was interesting as it has no sharp ends and nipples.  Perhaps that is intentional by the Baker to make it more Hong Kong style and easier to eat? 





IMG_7987IMG_7991Louis Roederer “Cristal" 2005 Champagne,  with French Gillardeau No.1 Oysters -
The Japanese dressing was enhancing it with a bit of spice and acidity,  and ultimately the Cristal Champagne was mostly Apple acidity with a faint hint of Brioche,  and complemented the minerally Oyster well enough.   ~  8/10




IMG_79942012 Marigny Neuf Sauvignon Blanc -
From just South of Loire Valley.  If you really know French wines you will always notice that France has so many hidden treasures and just off the Classified Appellations are always filled with surprises.  It is in these hidden vineyards where you can find your own treasures and without constraints by a systematic control of what can, or cannot be produced within a confined system.  You can argue from both sides of the argument but to me,  Wine is Wine.   Being certified with WSET Certification personally doesn’t necessarily mean you understand all French or other wines.  The current trend isn’t as Systematic and constrained at all as every few months onwards,  things do change for the better.   At least this was an Organic wine by design and individually unique somewhat.      





IMG_7997Summer Beans, John Dory fish,  Burnt Spring Onion and Fresh Hers Jus -
This was cooked really well indeed.   The recipe was spot on and there is nothing to complain about here.   Executed well enough.  ~  8/10



IMG_8004Duck Foie Gras and Cabbage Ravioli -
The concept to me is a bit Simplistic albeit also being thoughtful and an interpretation of a of Chinese Wontons.   At least it was executed well.  ~ 8/10 




IMG_80062002 Chambolle-Musigny Burgundy Pinot Noir -
Thanks and for sharing indeed.  This was so drinkable as expected. 





IMG_8009Potato Mash -
One of the best ones I can recall in town.  I am glad they paid Attention to such small details.   I prefer this over the HK or Macau Robuchon versions.





IMG_8033French Quail,  Beet Roots, Raspberry,  Potatoes,  Acidic juice -
This was served with Claws attached and signifies usually that the game birds were held in healthy free-range captivity and not in closed cages,  where they loose their claws after fighting.   This was cooked perfectly well and the only versions I could think of better than here,  are the new Pigeon dishes at Four Seasons Caprice,  also AKRAME in Wanchai.   This was great but I liked the above versions more as comparison but they are close enough in performance.   Here it just needed to retain more gamey Pigeon taste!   -  8/10





Price:  Lunch Invitation by Le Dome de Cristal and new Chef
Food:   ♕♕♕♕ to ♕♕♕♕ 1/2

Ease of Access:  4/5
Address:  中環皇后大道中9號嘉軒廣場3樓
3/F, The Galleria, 9 Queen's Road Central, Hong Kong, Central
Ph:  2116 4688

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