The Hyatt Hotel Group in Asia all definitely carry a universal vision. As a traveller one might notice that nearly all newer expanding Hyatt Hotels in China/Macau/HK region all carry a Chinese restaurant which has a central open-faced kitchen as a common theme. Within all of these open kitchens they will be making steamed Dim Sum, Hand-made Noodles, and most likely their famous Peking Duck using the recipe from the Hyatt Group’s super-famous Beijing Made in China pedigree (Previous Review: http://www.hkepicurus.com/2011/04/made-in-china-beijing.html). Shatin 18 in Hong Kong also reminds me of Macau’s Beijing Kitchen 滿堂彩 (http://www.hkepicurus.com/2010/03/beijing-kitchen-macau-peking-duck.html), which is all under the Hyatt umbrella group and all have great Peking Ducks.
Peking Duck Carved 3 Ways -
So Beijing or Pekinese in style. Even the minced garlic, sugar and tian mian jiang sauce were so accurate in style. I don’t know what kind of Peking Duck you have been eating all this while, but even in Hong Kong only a rare few places do it so accurately. Here are some comparisons for your information:
1) Beijing 大董烤鸭店 Da Dong Peking Duck http://www.hkepicurus.com/2012/02/da-dong-peking-duck-beijing-12.html
2) Duck de Chine 全鴨季 http://www.hkepicurus.com/2013/08/duck-de-chine-beijing-china.html
3) 便宜坊 Bianyifang http://www.hkepicurus.com/2013/08/bianyifang-beijing-china.html
4) Quanjude 全聚德 http://www.hkepicurus.com/2011/03/quanjude-beijing.html
5) 长安一号 Made in Beijing http://www.hkepicurus.com/2011/04/made-in-china-beijing.html
Belly Skin was Crunchily good -
We noticed it was quite skilfully air-dried before roasting, a standard procedure. The result speaks for itself..
川椒家鄉口水難 – Sichuan Pepper and Garlic with Chicken
Chicken meat and skin were both flavourful. The sauce looks intimidating but it was controlled spicy. A very lovely dish needing some white rice. ~ 8.5/10
Aged Mandarin Peels and Plum Sauce with Grilled-Baked Fish Cheeks - 陳皮梅醬煎焗魚雲
This was to me Shunde region in spirit, but the sauce was more modernized in a way. Micro-fusion within the Canton region if you ask me. Done very well and I can tolerate even a higher proportion of citrus peels if it wants to make a statement. Smooth.. ~ 8/10
Spinach, Chopped Dried Tofu and Pinenuts - 崧籽豆乾拌翡翠
The usual version uses a more fragrant herb Ma Lan Tou (Indian Aster) as in Shanghainese and regional cuisine dishes. This tried to emulate the same spirit but since Spinach is more in season, this is used instead. Lovely execution. ~ 8/10
Balacan Prawns Paste fried Beef Brisket with Fresh Pineapple - 馬拉盞鳳梨煎牛腩
Such an exotic dish. This is ingenious to me because it seems both South East Asian and Cantonese in concept mixed into one, and overall still very Cantonese Chinese without being too fusionized. This is what I call re-defined Cantonese Cuisine without losing its soul. Done very well indeed especially the sauce. Part of the brisket however can be more tender than bitey. ~ 8/10
Amaranth in Fish Stock and Conpoy - 魚湯瑤柱浸莧菜
The soup was very good. It’s right up there with Michelin 2* Shang Palace version. The amaranth were also super young sprouts in this occasion, which baffles me as they were so good yet out of sync with the season already… it shows that modern farming technology can make wonders at any time of the year. Although this dish sounds simple enough, the heart put into the base fish soup is often the major key. Here it definitely delivered and so far I have only eaten at 2 restaurants locally which can make this enviable quality. ~ 9.5/10
Black Garlic and Fresh Mountain Yam with Cod Fish - 黑蒜鮮淮山啫銀鱈魚
This was interesting because everyone on the table loved its accurate execution of the battered fish and mountain yam. May be from a recipe point of view this was expected but it was pulled together nicely with more emphasis on subtlety than exoticism. ~ 8/10
Sugared Plum and Black Pepper Grouper Fish on Crispy Vermicelli Cakes - 冰梅黑椒班片煎脆米粉
Another creative dish. I haven’t had this combination before but it definitely worked. The sweet, sour and peppery elements worked well as an overall concept. My only gripe is that the fried Rice Noodles seemed to be more hard compressed than light crispy. Loved the sauce though ~ 7.5/10
5 Nuts and Chocolate Cake - 五仁朱古力餅
Such a Mooncake and Traditional concept. It was almost like a brownie.
With So many Desserts -
Shatin 18 is actually super-famous for their creative Dessert flavours and offerings within the Asian-Pacific region. To the point it even over-rides the original Made in China in Beijing itself and they pride themselves on this advantage. Here for example are presented Black Sugar & Ginger Plum Pannacotta 黑糖薑話梅奶凍, Jasmine Tea Ice Cream with Sesame Tuile 茉莉花茶雪糕, Sichuan Pink Pepper Ice Cream 粉紅胡椒雪糕, and one of their signature Hua Diao Wine & Salted Dry Plum Ice Creams 花雕話梅雪芭. I have heard rumours about Chefs leaving Shatin 18 and going elsewhere and then moving again, but this is the hospitality trade and turn-overs do happen. With such a large Hotel Group I am sure they have this bit covered and a re-visit shows the quality is still there and if not better than before, for both the Duck and the new Signature Dishes.
Price: $350 – $450 + 10%
Food: ♕♕♕♕ to ♕♕♕♕♕ 1/2
Address: 沙田澤祥街18號沙田凱悅酒店4樓
4th Floor, 18 Chak Cheung Street, Hyatt Regency Hong Kong, Sha Tin, Hong Kong
Ph: 3723 7932
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