Thursday, February 27, 2014

Gonpachi 権八 - (Hong Kong)

 Gonpachi 権八 originally from Tokyo of Japan is world publicized for that unforgettable fighting scene in the movie Kill Bill,  in which Uma Thurman in her Yellow-Black Bruce Lee suit slices up her enemies like a gore-filled sashimi platter.   Over here at Hong Kong,   Gonpachi has also opened up a presence recently.   The following review is a combination of 2 separate visits spanning over a few months in-between,  and lately they are also holding an Iwate 岩手県 prefecture regional promotion in the menu.   This latter package was really reasonably priced and very memorable,  in fact more so than the regular menu we tried previously which we thought were slightly over-priced.  The 2nd visit with Iwate prefecture specialty items proved the other way around and became a real bargain and we already planned a revisit soon before they get taken off the menu by 31st of March.    I still believe firmly,   you need to know how to order here exactly to maximize the enjoyment!?


 


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桜顔 南部の雫 純米大吟醸 生貯蔵酒 Shizuku Junmai Daiginjo Sake  720ml – $468
This sake has a balanced Bu-Ai grinded rice ratio,  which means it retains a lot of pear fruitiness and also rice flavour,  not too single dimensional.   It was really addictive when served chilled,  and we became surprised at the lowish offering price at this fairly sophisticated quality.  It was hand picked by the HK side Owner of Gonpachi branch and exclusively imported by Gonpachi HK.  Really Yum and cheap.  Order this at all cost is my advice!   ~  9/10






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岩手蘋果凱撒沙律伴香脆白金豚肉 - Iwate Apple Caesar Salad with Crispy Iwate Pork Belly $128
It’s a Japanese Caesar salad of sorts, minus the anchovies but with crispened up Iwate pork and an poached egg.   Served also with really sweet Iwate Apple slices.  Likeable but not too Caesar salad dressing like,  but it was interesting although I think the pork slices were too crispy and wasted it’s original flavour after being fried.    ~  6.9/10








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Taraba Crab Tempura  タラバ蟹 天ぷら – $380
This was on a separate occasion.  It was fried well,  but personally missing some green elements like a Shishito pepper or some Sea or Matcha Green-tea salt on the side.   Tasted good but could be presented better and be more thoughtful as a package?      ~  7/10


 




 

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Iwate Beef Tenderloin Tataki with Sea Urchin – $188 each piece
This was nice although it is definitely more on the pricier side.    I liked it but at most I will pay $120 per piece personally.   Loved the Oba-Shiso leaf and shaved Myoga on the side.   Whether Sea Urchin works directly with Wagyu Tataki is anyone’s guess.  In this case I will probably say yes but just.  Both being quite oily..    ~  7.5/10





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炭燒厚切岩手白金豚,  金山寺山葵,  柚子胡椒  - $188
Charcoal-grilled Iwate Pork Loin with Kinshanji Wasabi & Yuzu Pepper
This 白金豚 was simply amazingly sweet and oily flavorful,  even more gamey than the usual sweet-potato sweetness associated with 黒豚 Kurobuta if you know what I mean already.   I often say that Kurobuta or other DNA porks outside of Japan taste different everywhere else,  but this version instantly brought back memories of the best of the best I have devoured and that includes Japan,  Spain and the UK.   And at only $188 this was a relative bargain.  The side of either Kinshanji Wasabi (Miso Wasabi beans) or the Yuzu Pepper both worked with the pork piece.   Absolutely delightful dish and the smell was so charcoal-y.   ~  10/10


 


 


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Charcoal-grilled Iwate Beef Tenderloin with Soy Sauce & Wasabi Sabayon Foam
& Konbu Salt  -  炭燒岩手牛柳配醬油泡、山葵及昆布鹽  $368
*Menu description was altered by me and hopefully more descriptive.   The Iwate Wagyu Tenderloin was Top A5 Grade but said to be less oily than other A5 Wagyu,  it definitely had both beefiness and oiliness combined,  very likeable and that whiff of real Charcoal induced flavour was so convincing.  The soy wasabi foam sauce was a nice complement,  so was the optional seaweed Kombu salt.   This was really likeable and despite the price-tag,  a must order for me.   ~  8/10

 



 


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Seaweed Kombu Salt -
Kombu is extracted to make MSG for Umami flavor usually.  Here,  it is presented in a more natural state with salt,  to enhance the dish’s taste.   So likeable. 




 

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Charcoal-grilled Chicken Tsukune with Onsen Tamago – $48 + $28
This carried again a whiff of Charcoal flavour,  the texture of both chicken and cartilage proportion was decent enough but it was missing some tare sauce.   The presence of an $28 Onsen egg,   rather than a raw egg yolk with tare sauce was surely unconventional and didn’t work,  and adding up the costs,  way too optimistic in margins.   ~   6/10






 

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泡菜豆腐岩手白金豚肉鍋 - Spicy Tofu Hotpot with Iwate Pork Belly and Kimchi $208
This looked neat but I expected a lot more pork slices for the price somehow.  The flavour was balanced,  rather than too mild or aggressive.   ~  6.5/10



 

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岩手之子 Iwate Pearl White Rice -
This is one of several famous rice from Iwate region and exclusive to HK. 
It is slightly more a longer grain than the normal Japonica round rice DNA grain,  and more flavorful.  It is definitely different and which style do you prefer?   I personally like all of them.


 

 

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岩手ホタテ大葉天ぷら - $98
Live Iwate Scallop and Scallop Skirts Tempura with Fried Oba Leaf
Another great dish and value for money.  Fried well and not greasy and also thoughtful.  ~  8/10








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岩手白金豚かつ と りんご卷.  梅ソース - $148
Deep-fried Iwate Pork Rolette with Apple and Ume Sauce
Execution was spot on and the very sweet Iwate pork surprisingly balanced the equally sweet diced apples,   under that panko cladding.   Amazing dish and unexpected and only for $148.   ~  10/10





 

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Zaru Cold Soba -
1st time it was all watery and soft. 
2nd time around,  it was cooked to only 1 minute and it was hard-chewy and flavourful.  The base dashi dip sauce was also decent.   Still taking time to monitor this dish to give an accurate review in the end….   ~  5/10 to 8/10

 

 


 

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Soba Pancake with Caramelized Iwate Apple and Vanilla Ice-Cream – $88
The crepe is made with buckwheat just like Northern French Galettes de Sarrasin,  it is interesting to see this item as buckwheat is used in both Japanese and French cuisine,  and this seems to be a good marriage in recipe.   The top of the sweet galette was caramelized instead of the menu description of the apples.   This was quite sinfully good but I think could have more buckwheat taste.  ~  8/10


 

 

Price:  $350 + 10% Per Person  (A combination of Two Separate Meals,  One paid by myself and One by Restaurant’s new Promotional items invitation. Too lazy to post separately. )
Score: ♕♕♕♕ to ♕♕♕♕♕

Opening Hours:
Sun to Thurs -   11:30am - 01:00am
Fri to Sat – 11:30am – 02:00am

Address: 銅鑼灣希慎道33號利園商場一期4樓
4/F, The Lee Gardens, 33 Hysan Avenue, Causeway Bay, HK
Ph:  2787 3688

Monday, February 24, 2014

Caprice with New Chef Vulin - (Hong Kong)

Michelin 2 Stars

Caprice’s new Chef  Fabrice Vulin used to head the kitchen of a Michelin 2* restaurant in France.   He already arrived in November 2013 but it took time to slowly over-haul the previous Signature Menu,  which was looked after by Vincent Thierry from Paris’s 2* Le Cinq fame.    I have posted a few reviews of Caprice before and some other meals I haven’t had the opportunity to,  but personally this spells a new start to the Caprice era,  so let’s all begin anew.





 
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Amuse Bouche – Coconut & Beetroot Meringue Lollipops,
Salmon Mousse on Parmesan Sable,   Pigs Trotter with Truffle Croquettes
The old Caprice always dished out Carbs as Amuse every time whether it was dinner or lunch.   I was glad to see such creative starters which looked so neat and befitting a proper 2-3 Star Michelin French restaurant.   ~  9/10



 

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Bread Basket with Bordier Butters -
The Sesame Brioche roll is still addictive.   The breads overall are decent although they are not memorable with the recipes.   They are baked very well none the less.   Local competitors I can brain storm up which makes great bread includes Spoon by Alain DucasseMandarin Grill & Pierre,  also Petrus.   Here it is decent but even the Bordier Butter flavour offerings were more geared towards traditional.  ~  8/10 

 

 

 

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Diced Alaskan King Crab in Vegetables Jelly Cannelloni,   Sliced King Crab meat, 
Sweet Garden Peas,  Peas and Bean Puree,  Spring Vegetables,  Caramelized Crab Reduction -
The Menu description was much more simple.   A lot of thought has been put into this dish,  and notice the over 10 types of vegetables and just at least 3 beetroot varieties alone.  Having said that,  the crab meat taste was decent only and the larger piece slightly rubbery.   The caramelized crab reduction sounded cool but could have a more convincing taste.   Easy to criticize from my side but I appreciate the kitchen for thinking up of this sophisticated recipe and hope that it pulls off soon in their final taste.   ~  7/10



 


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Frogs’ Legs Meuniere,  Frogs Boudin Blanc Sausage,  Young Spinach, Black Truffle,
Herbs Coulis,  Frogs Broth Foam -
Again being under-described on the Menu,  the above is my own interpretation as explained by the staff.   This was a really thoughtful dish with many many layers within,  one certainly appreciates the effort.   This was one of my favourite dishes for the lunch and the frogs’ legs were fried spot on,  the frogs boudin blanc sausage concept was kind of wicked.   Everything worked well together as a package but the black truffle was surprisingly not very flavourful as we found on other dishes.   ~  9/10

 




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Roasted Pork Belly sandwiched with Black Truffles,  Pork Skin Scratching Crumbs,  Black Truffle Puree,  Pork Jus Sauce,  3 Spoon quenelled Potato Mousseline.  Served with side of Thyme Roasted Onion filled with Truffles -
Again a multiple layered dish.  The Pork Belly was tender but quite fatty with a crispy skin,  the side pork scratching crumbs weren’t too French in concept to me but more Filipino or Spanish or Latin American but I like this bold concept.   Overall this was an aggressive dish and could have worked really impressively but as it is,   I wished the potato mousseline was more buttery and less dense,  the pork belly less fatty,  the truffles more pronounced.   A potential 12/10 dish but today it deserved probably a 8/10?     

 



 

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Roasted Cevennes Onion with Black Truffle and Thyme,  together with above Pork Belly Dish -
Initially it looked just like an onion ready for darkening a broth bar the flakes of sea salts,  but when we digged in,  we surprisingly found larger and larger pieces of truffles.  This was amazing in concept again but the truffles taste was missing.   As a benchmark,  the best Black Truffle I have encountered outside of Europe in HK,   was found at Uno Duo Trio.   ~  7/10





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Slow Roasted Local HK Pigeon stuffed with Foie Gras,  alternating Layers of Leek & Agria Potato Mille-Feuille,  Pigeon Jus Reduction Sauce, 
Grated Black Truffles and also Truffle Puree once again as above -
This was my favourite dish.  The local pigeon was slow-cooked perfectly pink and tender,  but really gamey at the same time and managed to over-power the stuffed foie gra within.   I personally found the Leek and Agria potatoes stack slightly under-cooked raw,  the truffles again missing real aroma,  but the Pigeon itself in performance was really amazing and covered up all the short comings.   ~  8.5/10  








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Mignardises,  or Petits Fours -
In France they are separated clearly depending if it is a pre-dessert or to go with a coffee.  Outside of France they are often treated as one.  The ones even during Lunch Time at Caprice are becoming more and more convincing and ever more thoughtful.   ~  7.5/10

 

 




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Chestnut Mont-Blanc Tart with Pine Tree Sorbet, 
Blackcurrant Marmalade & Berries Coulis sauce -
Amazing.   Actually I have never found desserts to be too amazing in HK or Macau region,  but if I had to count,  this has got to be the best dessert recipe and also in execution I have encountered.   The whole package just worked and was so foresty,  the pine tree sorbet was so addictive and yet worked with the equally foresty find of berries and currants,  also chestnuts.  ~  12/10 



 

 

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Korean Strawberry Napolean,  Yoghurt Cream, Aromatic Mint and Strawberry Sorbet -
Came adorned with some Sugar crystal flakes.  Again a complicated recipe which worked well as a combination and appreciated,  exactly what you expect from a 2-3 Star Michelin restaurant by Internation Standards.   *We also previously ordered a separate Caprice Cake which had a similar recipe and that was equally great and on par with Paris standards.  ~  8.5/10






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Caramels,  Nougats and Chocolates to finish off the Lunch Meal -
Done expertly here and the effort appreciated, 
especially for only a normal weekday lunch course.


 



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Cappuccino & Four Seasons Hong Kong’s uniquely Blended Tea -
The latter with some flowery Jasmine and can also be ordered at The Lounge downstairs.
Caprice under their new chef Fabrice Vulin is different from Vincent’s interpretation previously.  The savory food recipes with the New Chef are more exploratory and avant garde,  but ex-Chef Vincent was more about convincing you in terms of overall Grandness in recipe,  although he was also playful during lunch time before reverting back to more traditional French recipes by night.  It’s different definitely in approach of style,  at least for now,  let’s see what it will bring to Caprice in the longer run.  

 

 

Price:  $580 + 10% Per Person for Lunch
Score: ♕♕♕♕ 1/2 to ♕♕♕♕♕

Opening Hours:
Mon to Sun -    12:00pm - 22:30pm

Address: 中環金融街8號四季酒店6樓
6th Floor, Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance Street, Central, HK
Ph: 3196 8888

Sunday, February 23, 2014

Fuji no Sachi 富士の幸 II - (Hong Kong)

 This is my 2nd post on this Japanese restaurant,  it’s one of the more thoughtful Izakaya places which I enjoy in Hong Kong.   A previous review can be found here (Fuji no Sachi 富士の幸).   There are rumors that the previous chef left,  but when I visited recently he looked the same guy to me.

 

 

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Appetizer おとし – $20
Marinated Chicken Skin and Vegetable Ohitashi.  
Interesting to be served boiled skin as a starter!




 

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Urui & Clams in Egg Yolk Vinegar  うるいと蛤の黃味酢 – $65
This was nicely presented with urui and other vegetables,   and neatly stacked together like a Michelin grade restaurant.   The egg yolk vinegar was balanced and worked well with the barely cooked clams.  Lovely ~  9/10

 



 

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Miyazaki Chicken Nanban 宮崎名物 チキン南蛮 – $88
This is famous here,  because the chefs used to work at Genki Ippai nearby which also sells a lot of Kyushu style food.   The version here is bigger,  coated in more Nanban vinegar from underneath and therefore batter more softer.   The tartar sauce was eggy but could do with more pickles and also the versions in Hong Kong are mostly missing the Takana pickles you get in the original versions.   This is decent.  7.5/10

 

 

 

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Maguro Tuna,  Hirame Engawa and Kinmedai nigiri sushi -  $45-50 Two Pieces
Notice the pickled Fiddlehead Fern 薇.   The fishes were quite fresh and had a definite sweetness,  which you can’t take for granted in many places.   I guess the rice is too wet but overall they were palatable and plus this is not a sushi shop.    ~  7/10

 

 

 

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Chef comes out to clean tables and hand dishes to us -
A really personal touch and we enjoyed it.

 

 

 

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Unagi Eel & Egg Hotpot  うなぎの柳川鍋 – $95
The base stock is super sweet and lined with plenty of goubou burdocks.   The eggs were cooked to the right runny state.   If any complaint,  I expected more thickness in the Unagi.   ~  7/10

 



 

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Some Sake decently Priced -
Overall this shop is hearty and the dishes are even unique in Hong Kong context,  and it’s prepared more than decently at this price point especially considering the attention to small details.   I have other regular places which I might just choose over here for food alone,  but when you see the Chef regularly handing out your dishes while they remain hot from the kitchen or wiping down tables with a smile on his face,  you definitely feel that extra personal touch and obliged to return back as a regular.


 

 

Price:  $350 Per Person
Ease of Access:   3/5  (Near MTR Tsim Sha Tsui Station)
Food: 
♕♕♕♕1/2

Opening Hours:
Mon to Sun -    12:00pm – 14:30pm,  18:00pm - 23:30pm
Address: 尖沙咀寶勒巷10號2樓
Fuji No Sachi Japanese Restaurant, 2/F, 10 Prat Avenue, Tsim Sha Tsui

Ph: 2366 7128

Friday, February 21, 2014

Edo & Bibo Sunday Brunch - (Hong Kong)

 Edo & Bibo acts more like a Steakhouse during dinner time,  and it's a sister shop to the famous 131 in Sai Kung.   The Dining Group also owns Bicho 備長 and the lovely Torimen,  as well as some other bars and karaoke clubs.     Today we were here as a Group to try out the Sunday Brunch offerings and I probably liked the unlimited drinks more than the food.


 


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Sunday Brunch Menu -
Good value for money,  both Food and Drinks wise.  

 

 


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Looks almost like a Japanese Sushi Bar for some reason -
But this is a Steak House restaurant at night,   and now Sunday Brunch is served.
Weekdays wise,  apparently they are popular for their Semi-Buffet Lunch.

 



 

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Mimosa Cocktail - Unlimited Free flow, $150 for 2 Hours
A great deal for 2 hours.  Imagine if you drank 10 of these?  It's only $15 each.   Orange Juice unlimited is $80 for 2 hours.  If you also love OJ like me,  this is like heaven.







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Totten Bay Oysters (US) and Shikoku (US) - $108 for 3 pieces
The Oysters on this Sunday were at prime condition.   The Totten Bay was crunchy with a metallic minerality,  and compared to the ones I eat usually everywhere else,  these were at really top condition.   The Shikoku meanwhile are smaller DNA oyster which is similar to Japanese Kumamoto oysters,  I usually like them but the Totten Bay today were unbeatable in condition.   ~  8/10








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Crab Meat Eggs Benedict,  Potato Mash and Grilled Tomato - $88
Pretty good value,  the crabs are freshly picked and although tasted like they were previously frozen,  there was plenty of it on top of the toasts.   I mean at $88 only what can people expect?  The eggs were runny enough and quite strong in eggy taste.  The Hollandaise sauce however was thicker than I imagined but correctly tangy.   I personally think the mashed potatoes can be more smoother and buttery but why was it even there in a brunch?...    ~  7/10







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Crab Meat underneath-
For $88 really can't complain,  the crab meat was just ok and passable but aplenty.   I am sure some other places do a better version but those places will cost a lot more.   Since I live near here, plus the Free-Flow options are quite affordable and offered for a whole of 2 hours,  I think this offer alone might just be enough of an incentive to become my regular Sunday Brunch spot.  *Their scrambled eggs I didn't try,  but I probably prefer them more runny and smooth!  If I come back for those!

 

 

 

Price:   HKD $238  (Meal by Invitation as Preview Tasting)
Ease of Access:  5/5
Food:  ♕♕♕ to  ♕♕♕1/2

Address: 銅鑼灣軒尼斯道525號澳門逸園中心28樓
28F Macau Yat Yuen Centre,  525 Hennessey Road,  Causeway Bay,  Hong Kong
Ph:  3421 0472

Thursday, February 20, 2014

MO Clipper Lounge “Italian Buffet” - (Hong Kong)

 Mandarin Oriental Hotel’s Clipper Lounge doubly serves customers with Afternoon Tea Sets as well as Buffet later during dinner time.   We were Invited by the Hotel to try out their latest theme of Italian and Seafood Buffet one night,  offered at $458 on Weekdays and $478 on Weekends.   It’s very reasonable and how is the food,  you might ask?   Very impressive personally because it was all cooked so well.  This Italian themed Buffet will run from now until 31st of March.  

 

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Salad,  Charcuterie and Cheese section -
Watch out for the Wax Honey !





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Some Cold Cuts -



 

 

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Roasted Chicken,  Kebab style -
Interesting to have this in a buffet setting!

 

 



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Heirloom Beef Heart Tomatoes -
Part of the Mozzarella salad from the Cold Selection.




 

 

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Roasted Rib-Eye -
Slow cooked to pink,  it was quite tender but it was the meatiness which wowed us.  Served with Yorkshire Pudding on the side with a lovely gravy,  this was one of the best buffet Roast Beefs I have eaten in HK   ~  8/10

 

 



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Zampone Pigs Trotter with Lentil Beans -
A trusted combo in Italy,  this is house-made here at Clipper Lounge.   I expected some mint in the lentil beans somehow,  but the gelatinous trotter was cooked so correctly.  Very unique to find this Italian staple dish in a buffet setting.   ~  8/10 




 

 

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Pasta Station -
Not many choices of sauce and condiments,  but I guess you can pick more seafood and add some in yourself.   There are actually more Italian rice and pasta options served at the Hot Buffet section.



 

 

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Penne with Pesto -
Add some more chicken and cheese on top by yourself?

 

 



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Abalone and Shrimps -
Pretty happy to see unlimited Abalones at a buffet!








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Mantis Shrimps,  Flower Crabs,  Sea Whelks -

 

 

 

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Pacific Oysters -

 

 



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Razor Clams,  Clams,  Mussels -
Interesting to see Razor Clams and above Abalone,  Mantis Shrimps. 
Not usual offerings at a HK Buffet!

 

 

 

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Crab Legs -



 

 

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Sashimi and Sushi Section -

 


 

 

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Oyster -
So plump.

 

 

 

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Figs,  Goats Cheese,  Waxed Honey,  Walnuts and Olives -
Plated by our lovely host.

 

 

 

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Some Italian Riso and Pasta Dishes -
I added more seafood on top by myself!    ~  7/10

 




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Osso Buco Milanese -
Veal shank with Bone Marrow,  this is cooked really well,  with lots of herbs,  aromatic vegetables and is fork tender.   Would be perfect with some risotto!  ~  9/10



 

 

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Dessert Section -
With a large variety of quality desserts,  as you would trust from Mandarin Oriental Hotel..

 

 




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Tiramisu with Biscotto and Vanilla Ice Cream -
It’s more a kids friendly version.

 




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Lemon Meringue Tart -
This was really tart and sour,  surprising and right up my alley!  Lovely and hope they serve this permanently..   ~   9/10






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Chocolate Truffles and Champagne Truffles unlimited -
These are nearly $30 each at the Pastry Shop next door,  so do eat a few more of these!! 

 

 


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Some Lemon Sorbet to finish the night..
This Italian and Seafood Buffet as mentioned will last until 31st of March.
There are a lot more food on offer but here are some of the best items I liked.   It really is a bargain with great beef,  Zampone,  many seafood and desserts.  Might even go back soon.



 

Price:   HKD $458 to $478  (Buffet Meal was by Invitation)
Ease of Access:  4/5 
Food:  ♕♕♕♕ 1/2 to ♕♕♕♕♕

Address: 中環干諾道中5號香港文華東方酒店閣樓
1F Mandarin Oriental Hotel,  5 Connaught Road, Central
Ph:  2825 4007

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