Thursday, May 7, 2015

粵來順 Yuet Lai Shun - Affordable Cantonese Restaurant by Chef Tam & Chef Chan from Michelin 1* Dong Lai Shun

 The Michelin 1* Dong Lai Shun from Royal Garden Hotel has recently opened up a separate 2nd outlet in Causeway Bay.  This restaurant 粵來順 Yuet Lai Shun however is another 3rd restaurant,  which carries a similar name and sells instead mostly Cantonese dishes.   The similarities between the 3 shops’ names (not including the ones in Beijing),  is that Chef Chan has externally opened up his own new Cantonese venture with Chef Tam in the outskirts of Mongkok area.   Despite having been opened for only a few months,  this place is jam packed every night and since it opens until 2:00am daily,  apparently it has become the supper canteen of many other local Chefs who finally came off-duty and needed a comfort meal with quality. 



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Master Stock Platter 滷水拼盤 – $158
Cantonese sub-region Chiu Chow style in spirit,  this comes with Large Intestines,  Tofu,  Calamari and Red Sausage.  The marination was done alright and balanced.  The cooking was spot on this time.  ~ 7.5/10


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Almond Soup with Pig’s Lungs and Chicken Feet 杏汁燉白肺 – $208
Both this and the above dish are Chiu Chow cuisine based,  but both have since been incorporated into Cantonese cuisine in general as geographical,  Chiu Chow is a part of Canton.   Talk about micro-regions within China and it opens up the Pandora’s Box!   This almond soup was sweet but for some of us slightly not sweet almond-y enough and got over powered by both Pork Meat and Chicken Feet stock.  Viscosity was correct though.   This is one soup dish that many places are happy to serve,  but even some as strong calibre as The Chairman or HKU Alumni Restaurant can’t make it correct.  From my memory,  only Luk Yu Tea House and Queen’s College Chinese Restaurant have nailed it right.   ~ 6/10




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Honeyed Soy Sauce Poached Chicken 蜂蜜豉油皇雞 – $98
Now this was great, I can’t remember a better version except mine  (Subjective haha but not boasting,  who wants to try mine!  Ok no one lol forget it hehe).   The fault with most versions in town is that the chicken is over-poached tough,  and the marinating sauce is 1 dimensional.   Here even the chicken breast was still silken smooth,  the skin and meat have absorbed in the poaching liquid flavours adequately.  Something you assume is easily done,  but rarely do you find any good balance.  If I was to nitpick,  I think it could handle slightly more spice and Chinese wine but it was definitely present.   ~ 9/10



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Fried Kataifi Pastry with Minced Prawns and Cheese  千絲芝心球 – $98
A smart combination.   The pastry was expectedly nice,  the middle prawn mince was also beaten to have that elastic texture. The cheese was ok but overall this was a very enjoyable Signature Dish.  If only they could change to an artisanal cheese as the flavour discrepancy is quite apparent when most commercial cheese ain’t even real cheese.   ~ 8.5/10




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Prawns Paste and Stir-Fried Beef with Kai Lan Veggies 蝦醬牛肉炒芥蘭 – $78
The ingredients independently are expected,  but this trio of combination is actually quite rare.  Usually it’s done with a different veggie like Kangkong/Water Spinach/Morning Glory and minus the beef meat.  Still familiar.  Re-invented and probably the Chef has re-invented a homey dish without himself knowing.   ~ 9/10



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Black Pepper Sauce with Fried Pork Knuckle 黑椒脆豬髀 – $128
This has always baffled me as a recipe.  Is it considered German?  However it is sort of a staple in many Cantonese restaurants.  The Black Pepper sauce however has always been a part of Cha Chaan Teng culture,  which in itself is kind of fusionized in concept.  The meat was tender but the skin could be more crispier in some parts.  ~ 7/10



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Dried Plum Pork Knuckle 話梅豬手 – $98
2 Knuckle dishes in a row,  this won my heart hands down!   My fellow foodie friend said this could have a more sour plummy note – I also agree.  However this was rather appetizing already and as it is I will give it an 8/10. If it had more plum and some acidity layering,  this could be potentially a 12/10 dish for me.


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Preserved Olives and Soy Bean Pork Spare Ribs 欖豉骨 – $78
It was more honeyed coated than I imagined.   With the menu description I somehow expected this to be more on the savoury side.   The meat itself was however fried then coated with sauce to perfection.   Just needed more of the Olives and Soy Bean influence.  ~ 6/10




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Cast Iron Pot of Abalone with Tofu Puffs 啫啫鮑魚加豆卜 – $168
Great price.  Taste was as expected,  at least executed decently.  Good price though. ~ 7/10


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Vermicelli with Dried Shrimps,  Shrimp Roes,  Dried Conpoy 金勾銀柳 – $88
Said to be an award-winning dish was turned out to be more aesthetics than the taste.   I can’t taste much of the dried shrimps or the prawn roes,  nor the Conpoy.   I am pretty sure performance does fluctuate depending on costs or seasons,  but to me it is unacceptable if a hyped-about dish is this flat.  Even giving it benefit of doubts for fluctuation.   ~ 5//10



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Sticky Rice Freshly Steamed with Male Roe Crab 糯米蒸蟹 – $440
Male crabs give it the silken tomalley/roe texture and melts into the rice.  This was done really well and the watery crab meat sweetness melted into the rice.   Many versions in town are under-performing and yawn.  Not this one here,  even the rice was steamed perfectly and there wasn’t too much pungent garlic input like everywhere else.  ~ 8/10



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Eggs and Water Chestnuts Soup 蛋花馬蹄露 -
A traditional Cantonese dessert soup,  which I grew up with but lately is not as popular.  Compared to the past I found this to have too much crunchy Water Chestnuts,  but other than that the taste was accurate.  ~ 7/10


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Almond and Egg White Tea Soup 蛋白杏仁茶 -
No tea involved, it’s just a name in Chinese to indicate it’s texture.  This was ok but like the above savoury Almond Pigs Lung’s Soup,  could be more thicker and pronounced in the different types of Almond Flavours.  

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Yuet Lai Shun -
A new partnership restaurant between Michelin 1* famed Chef Chan and Head Chef Tam.  (Soothsayers will say a Michelin star is only awarded to the Restaurant not the Chef,  yawn.  Well the Head and Executive Chef is a major part of the whole Kitchen Team isn’t it.  Bored to death explaining this to people with bias.).   To me the biggest attraction about here is the overall mid-high quality vs affordable pricing point.  Also the fact that it opens until late til 2am.   I will be happy to dine here any time again but not expecting any miracles of course.  Michelin Bib Gourmand quality for me however personally especially when I need a meal at 1am..



Price:  $200 + 10% plus Drinks
Food:   ♕♕♕♕ to ♕♕♕♕ 1/2

Address:  2-8 Dundas Street,  10-12 Po Hung Building,  Mongkok
旺角登打士街2-8號寶亨大廈地舖10-12號   (About 10 minutes walk from Mongkok towards Olympus Station direction.)
Ph:  2788 3078

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