Sunday, November 22, 2015

Angelini - New Italian Chef at the Kowloon Shangri-la

 The new Italian Chef’s family name  is also called Angelini by chance here at Angelini.  He is really into his Pasta dishes,  I would say he would be the right candidate to become the next Pasta King in HK.  The 1st experience of his food was during the re-opening Ceremony and the 2nd time around,  it was thanks to the Hotel’s Invitation as a Preview tasting event of their new chef’s creations.   Actually to draw a comparison,  I think Marco Polo Hotel’s Cucina with their equally new Chef Delzanno was also quite Visionary with his Italian food concepts.   And GOLD by Harlan’s and Penthouse are right up there as well in terms of food quality but with a slightly American slant,  yet who can in details quantify the discrepancy between their quality vs 8 1/2 Otto e Mezzo or CIAK receiving 3 Michelin Stars or 1 Michelin Star in comparison?   Even the so called World’s Top 2 Italian restaurant I went to Osteria Francescana only recently got upgraded to 3 stars and in hindsight,  that was very artistic although the taste was half-half too.  And even NOMA remains at 2* as a rating all these years.  It can be just a joke sometimes,  but I am here to change the game if I can allow myself as a foodie:

AS a side note,  why isn’t AMBER Michelin 3* worthy when it totally is right up there?  Even if their dessert mignardises are way too sweet but the food concept is just great always..


Italian Mineral Water -



Romantic as a Setting -
The Angelini Restaurant is perfect for a marriage proposal.   Just saying


Entrance Door -
The ambiance is better than my photo captured,  I just don’t want to tune the photos again for the Nth time…  hehe


Bread Basket and Entrance -
The Olive oil has changed from the past.  There are also 3 diff types of Salts.  The Grissini and Bread have also been upgraded recently and taken on a renewed look…  Loved all of them  8.5/10



Grapefruit and Orange juice -
Freshly squeezed.  I don’t normally comment on juices but I have to say this was brilliant and carried really fresh flavours.    I ordered 2 in the end to confirm.


Fresh Burrata Cheese on Toast -
For some reason I was adamant that this was a sheep’s cheese tonight like a Ricotta.   I appreciate the Hotel for verifying afterwards it was still a Burrata,  it tasted quite strong so its a good thing!   ~ 8/10



Piedmont Fassone Beef Tenderloin Tartare with Puffed Rice Puffs -  $220
Shallots ,  Pine Nuts,  Carrot,  Wasabi Mayonnaise from the tube.  This Italian Beef is well known for being served raw,  I have had this many times in Italy and in HK context.  I have had it at il Milione,  Nicholini’s, Tosca and more in HK too.   However I found the performance here was surprisingly as good as the ones I ate in Italy,  one of the rare occasions when the Beef flavour sang out.  Actually this is a very specialty beef in Italy itself and almost designed for this purpose  ~ 8.5/10



Scampi, Pineapple,  Cucumber,  Lime,  Watermelon  - $340
This had the Scampi long claw too,  interesting.  I liked this as it was fresh fishy and the Claw was scissored and intact.  Attention to details.  Its quite Mediterranean in spirit  ~ 8/10



Cannolo Red Sicilian Red Prawns,  Avocado,  Green Apple and Yogurt Sauce – $280
This was a bit salty.   I don’t know why but I always see this concept appear in Spanish Cuisines too lately.   Which,  back in the days Spain,  France and Italy were to me all of the same Roman Catholic background so I am not fussed.  I expected some Red Prawn reduction and less saltiness.  On the positive side the red prawn flavours was singing out itself…  I just think it needs less salt somehow even comparing to Roman salty dishes ~ 7/10




Spicy Goose Liver Terrine,  Wild Berries and White Balsamic Vinegar – $280
This was strongish albeit slightly dense.  I like the idea of the White Balsamic Vinegar though as it was unique.   I think the terrine could be whipped up more as a texture.   ~ 6.5/10



Tagliolino Classico al Tartufo Bianco,
Alba White Truffles Pasta – $598
The pasta was done on point again and I didn’t post all my pics from here,  sorry.   As for the White Truffle,  it was good too but I guess this isn’t Europe.   It just isn’t as evocative in the aroma in Europe but still decent.  ~ 7.5/10



Black Truffled Pasta with Cheese -
This was as good as it gets.  Even the Black Truffles were aromatic and the pasta cooked well..  !  Great Pasta too.  Really loved this dish,  way over that some other famous shops in HK!  9/10




Signature Black & White Seafood Pasta.  Al Cartoccio style or parchment Pappilote -
Signature Dish here apparently and made with 2 pasta color types.  I loved the base of this seafood sauce,  although for the price point I think it could be slightly bigger even as a Primi Course.   Great Seafood flavours though especially with the Clams jus..  Sorry I am just being frank  ~ 8/10



Italian and Japanese Hokkaido Sea Urchin for the Risotto -



Italian & Japanese Hokkaido Sea Urchin Pasta with Black Truffe  -
My 2nd time having this.  This time was more intense but chalky harder. 
I liked the texture of the rice although it was quite black truffle-y,   meaning the sea urchin side was more subtle.  I guess that is life,  do you prefer more Black Truffles than Urchins?  ~ 8/10


A Red Wine by Frescobaldi -
A predominantly Merlot based red.   A Famous brand and trusted.
Slightly new French oaky and Sommelier was friendly.



Savory Style Dover Sole with Fried Bone – $480
This was just okay.  The fish was a little bit too strong in its flavour, which,  was totally unexpected as its usually quite sterile.   From another angle,  this might be Chef Angelini’s strong point as he managed to make this stand out but I beg to differ,  it really was too strong in flavours unless you wash it down with a white wine.   Although the bone was fried too,  reminding me of Japan Cuisine somewhat!   We all somehow agreed this fish dish was strong and too expensive for the portion   6/10



Wagyu M8 Meat Sirloin with Parmesan Cheese and Bone Marrow – $590
Cooked well.  Loved the presentation of this.  However I think the bone marrow portion should be bigger to make a bigger impact.  I certainly didn’t received much of this after sharing this dish : )  ~ 8/10

Coffee Crusted Pork Tenderloin,  Foie Gras and Mustard Sauce – $460
This was interesting as the pork was cooked to medium pink by default,  which I can of course accept,  but I believe not many Chinese normally do as they suck ass usually.  This was lovely to me.  ~ 8/10



Honey Pigeon Breast,  Tempura Pigeon Leg,  Cous Cous and Balsamic Vinegar Salad – $480
Once again both were cooked to closer to rare.  The mineral and myoglobin blood taste was retained.  This taste really depends on the individual,  for me,  I can accept it but I think it depends on the weather as well.  The more Wintery it is the more I desire such a dish!  ~ 8/10




Meringue Drops,  con alla Crema Mandoria sauce Almond Cream,  Salted Caramel – $9
This was fun.  



Gelati e Sorbetti -
I was saying this was quite already pushing the limit for HK.   Pear sorbet was really nice.  Loved the Combination of milky Gelato e Fruity Sorbetto.


Burnt Tiramisu.  This was so good and inventive -  9/10 
I love traditional style Tiramisu too,  but this one was more pushing the limits




Affogato -
A variation.
With popping candies in-between.   But still carrying a Coffee Espresso base to be true to the spirit.




Mille-Feuille Pastry -
It is nicely done and well layered indeed.  Quite Thoughtful in hindsight and with multiple Chocolate playings.  I did mentioned a couple of places above,  like Nicholini’s,  even Pirata,  here at Angelini’s,  Harlan’s by Gold,  Cucina at Marco Polo.   All of these are under appreciated,  but to me they are always right up there.   (At least under my standards hehe)
- 9/10




Price: $1200 + 10%
Address:  尖沙咀麼地道64號九龍香格里拉大酒店閣樓
Kowloon Shangrila, Kowloon
Ph: 2733 8750

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