Mott32 卅二公館 [Hong Kong] - Chef Lee from Michelin 1 Star Mandarin Oriental now Helming the Kitchen

  At Mott32 Hong Kong & Vancouver,  Head Chef Lee Man Sing now cooks and overlooks the kitchen duties,  when he was previously poached from the admirable kitchen at Michelin 1 Starred Man Wah Restaurant at Mandarin Oriental Hotel HK.  In fact Chef Lee has been running the kitchen at Mott 32 for over a year already,  although with his persona as such a low profile Chef who is more into actions than words,  we noticed that we have hardly felt his presence in the social media limelight these days since his latest career move.   I do owe him an overall write up and introduction too,  since I have been here a few times but never had the time to officially put him onto my website for reference.  One thing that triggered and motivates me to do a write up about the updated Mott32 - is that we notice most customers arrive in for their famous wood fire oven Peking Duck,  BBQ Iberico Charsiu Pork with Yellow Mountain Honey,  and also the Truffled Siu Mai dim sum, and that's where it ended for them as a culinary destination.   However,  this is not what Chef Lee was originally famous for when he ran the kitchen at Mandarin Oriental Man Wah,  and he certainly created some labour intensive and creative dishes for the Mott32 Menus,  to which I can hopefully showcase to you some of his best dishes..

The Peking Duck Oven -

We had this a few times previously,  it is admirable, but this overall review is not about this aspect of Mott32,  which is well proven as a formula !

Sichuan 'Lantern' Air Dried Beef  燈影牛肉 - HKD $105

A beautiful rendition of this tedious dish to make, which actually requires steaming, air drying and frying,  to give it the thin translucent look,  but with a crispy crackle rather than a jerky-like texture.  Here, it is quite Ma La numbing as well as Spicy, definitely one of the best versions in town and a must order after Chef Lee has arrived into Mott32 from Mandarin Oriental. ~

Seasonal Yunnan Mushrooms Sang Choi Bao Lettuce Cups -

Neatly done.  In Hong Kong nowadays,  Sang Choi Bao does not make as much an appearance on menus,  but usually as a supplementary dish to say a Peking Duck's carcasse meat being used up as a 2nd dish.  Or perhaps wrapping a Spring Roll.  Here,  it definitely appeals to foreigners and expats who love to eat exotic Chinese food..

椒鹽鮑魚仔併金菇 Salt & Pepper Fried Abalone with Enoki Mushrooms -

Another Signature starter here,  this time around it appeals more to local Hong Kong customers,  especially when in the recent decade or so,  it has become popular again in the ex Fishing Village area restaurants in town,  especially near Saikung.  Here it is paired with addictive enoki mushrooms.  I was joking that this dish would pair exceptionally well with Whisky or X.O. based Cocktails..

Iberico Pork Charsiu with Wild Yellow Honey -

This was originally one of the Signature items here since the inception of Mott32 opening,  even before Chef Lee's time.  However,  these days it has evolved into two versions - here is the cut which uses the Iberico Presa instead of the Pluma,  which gives it slightly more texture and melty connective tissues,  and closer to what Hong Kong-Cantonese style Charsiu is expected to taste like.  Customers can still choose between the both cuts on the menu these days.

Iberico 'Presa' Cut Charsiu -

Despite looking almost the same,  this is actually an alternative muscle cut used...

Quail Egg Truffled Siumai Dumpling -

A part of the trio of Signature items here, apart from the Peking Duck & Charsiu,  again these were already here and preceded Chef Lee's arrival,  the latter is more contributing towards the labour intensive and chef dependent dishes here.  We order this every time during Lunch or Dinner,  but I am glad to say this time has been the best version we have tried,  with the pork bouncy and not too solid,  the quail eggs still runny and wrapped inside rather than placed on top,  the traditional way.

Seasonal Autumn Yunnan Mushrooms Soup with Fish & Pork -

Double boiled and sweet tasting, aromatic. 

Shanghai Smoked Fish 熏魚 - HKD $260

A dish that Chef Lee does very well of,  the traditional Shanghainese version is actually not smoked but only called so for its similar flavors after braising and frying,  but here it goes the extra step to fulfil it's potential.  Again a dish that we have to order every time nowadays in the revamped Mott32 menu,  and definitely one of the best authentic tasting versions in town.  The other is at Michelin 1 Star Zhejian Heen in Wanchai.

Yunnan Morel Mushrooms with Scallops -

A stir fried dish that is quite typical Cantonese,  but here the thickish scallops had a more caramelized surface from wok frying,  which seems to be a food trend nowadays.  Previously the Cantonese version of this dish had softer, wetter versions of the scallops which were more thinly sliced, and remember that previously in Hong Kong we actually ate more of the Pen Shells varieties,  than the Hokkaido or European style scallops.

Scallion Stir-Fried Angus Beef -

This is a newer addition to the menu here.  The Beef are thickly sliced,  which differs slightly from the thinly shaven Beef or Mutton version which is predominantly eaten in Beijing or Mongolia for this recipe.  To me,  I think it could handle more wok searing aroma of the scallions and spring onions,  or leeks,  which was the essence of eating this dish.

鹽焗野菇法國春雞 Salt Baked Mixed Mushrooms & French Spring Chicken - 

A seasonal recipe using fragrant Mushrooms as stuffing, in a Chinese style with shadows of French cuisine.  The Lotus Leaf was of the fresher variety which imparted a greener aroma.  Inside were stuffings of mushrooms and pearl barley.  Someone said online that this resembles a bit of a Beggars Chicken,  which in hindsight is probably quite true,  just without the pickled vegetables lying the bottom of the poultry,  but using mushrooms instead.

Fried Beancurd Skins with Gingko Nuts, Red Dates, and Broccoli -

A Vegetarian dish that has some crispy elements,  and definitely appeals to locals and foreigners alike.  In fact I have hardly seen this typical Chinese medicinal vegetables dish done in this fashion.  Bravo.

Lobster Rice -

This is a relatively newer Crustacean rice dish,  and it was also served recently at the Singapore F1 Grand Prix circuit by the Mott32 team.  It has a decent amount of lobster bisque for cooking the rice,  and there is actually a history to this dish too...  Initially Chef Lee wanted to cook his Crispy Rice in Lobster Bisque dish,  which he exceled in at Man Wah at Mandarin Oriental.  In the end he created this drier version just for Mott32,  to distinguish itself from the previous version.  Having said that,  I have actually eaten that wetter version here too on a previous visit luckily..

Blood Orange & Guava Mousse Cake with Oatmeal & Jasmine Ice Cream - $105

A new dessert creation here.  Pictured above is the updated version of the Soy Sauce Ice Cream with Strawberries and White Chocolate Panna Cotta, which is a perennial favorite here. 

The Latest Food at Mott32 -

It is not my first visit after Chef Lee arrived into the kitchen, but it has stabilized and found a footing.  Of our multiple visits to Mott32,  we can tell instantly that there are two crowds which patron here - those who are more dining here for the Peking Duck, Truffled Siu Mai and BBQ Iberico Charsiu who might be lured into the space as these dishes appeal to foreigners from Asian to ABC,  Expats alike.  And then there are some of us who followed Chef Lee from his Mandarin Oriental days and come here for his Signature dishes,  some of which are unique and deserving merit, and which he helped to re-create for the Mott32 kitchen.  Which camp do you belong to when you arrive here to dine next time!! 

Price:  Around HKD $350 to $550 + 10%  (Media Invitation Meal for Autumn Yunnan Mushroom Dishes + Multiple Self Visits combined)
Food: ♕♕♕♕ 1/2 to ♕♕♕♕♕

Address: Basement, Standard Chartered Bank Building, 4-4A Des Voeux Road Central, Central

中環德輔道中4-4A號渣打銀行大廈地庫

Phone: +852 28858688

TOWN by Nagao [Hong Kong] - Tasting Menu by Chef Bryan Nagao, Previously of Peninsula's Felix at HKD $648

  TOWN by Bryan Nagao has received a 2016-2017 Michelin Guide Recommendation since it's inception and previously it was known as Alba in this Cubus Tower location. Chef Nagao is born Hawaiian-Japanese and used to be the Head Chef at Hong Kong Peninsula's Philipe Starck studded Felix, and in his own restaurant nowadays the food concentrates mainly on sourcing fine Japanese ingredients, and cooked in a Modern European way,  occasionally with reference to his Hawaiian or Japanese roots!    It is one of the best hidden gems in Causeway Bay,  and in particularly to his regular Lunch Customers,  Bryan is actually well known for making some of the best thoughtful salad dishes in Hong Kong .. 

Town by Bryan Nagao -
Deservingly, a regular recipient of Michelin Recommendations even in the latest 2017 Guide. Although Causeway Bay is more known for Japanese or Casual eats and often revered as the Shibuya of Hong Kong,  it does also employ many Office Workers in the district.  Hence restaurants like Town by Nagao, or Michelin Starred Seasons by Olivier nearby have their market..

Bread Basket -

Tasting Menu at HKD $648 - 5 Courses

For night time, a very reasonable Tasting Menu with some of Bryan's Signature Dishes

Wagyu Tartare 'Bavette', Sea Urchin, Japanese Melon, Avocado & Yuzu Mayo, Truffle Soil with Fried Taro Strips - Supplement HKD $28
This had flavorful and thickly diced beef cubes,  and sweet Sea Urchins.  The pairing of the fruit sauces was a smart idea,  with the Truffle Soil adding the final touch. 

Charcoal Cooked Beetroot for "Days", Burrata Cheese, Rhubarb Sauce & Endive Salad.
With a tinge of Lemon Thyme Herbs -
Quite refreshing as a small salad..  The Burrata only uses the inside runny cheese,  with bits of stracciatella. 

Grilled Australian Octopus Legs, Lomi-Lomi Tomatoes, Pickled Lemon & Ume -

The Octopus was tender with a charred surface,  it reminded me of some Spanish Restaurants in town which serve the Galician octopus version - the tentacles are slightly salty even without any seasoning, since it is naturally briny from the sea water.  The use of some fruity elements is apparent in this late Summer Tasting Menu.

Ayu Fish with Ayu Liver Sauce, Saffron, Oka Hijiki 陸鹿尾菜, Sansho Pepper, Dill Weed and Cherry Tomatoes. Topped with Sea Grapes -

One of the most memorable Japanese Ayu 鮎 fish Courses I have ever tried. The fresh 陸鹿尾菜 replaces the similar and traditional Tade-su 蓼酢 in this recipe, and fully brings out the fish aroma. The skin was evenly thin Crispy and the meat was so moist, partially bone-in at the tail.  It was my first time knowing Chef Nagao cooks Ayu fish,  and it impressed a lot.  Even down to the slight numbness in the sauce spiked with peppercorns..

Charred Honeyed Figs, Blood Orange Sorbet, Vanilla sponge,
with Butter Crumbles & Honey Crumiel -

A lovely dessert course to finish the dinner meal.  The dessert recipe carries some elements of Molecular gastronomy within,  which is always welcome as desserts should spring some surprise elements.  The savory dishes in the mean time were solid and thoughtful,  form follows function - without going down the overly presentable plating way.

It was Great to revisit Chef Nagao at Town -
Last visit I came during Lunch Hours for their Main Course + Salad Antipasti Bar,  which was a lovely meal as well and I still remember the well cooked Beef Pasta,  as well as the Spring Chicken dish vividly.   Next time I come again,  I will need to order the Signature Suckling Pig,  which has elements of Hawaiian cuisine in it and representing the Chef's paying homage to his birth place.

Price:  HKD $648 + $28 + 10%  (Note:  Chef Nagao actually invited me to come check up randomly on his Kitchen Team,  when he was Out of Town for Holiday...)

Food: ♕♕♕♕ 1/2 to ♕♕♕♕♕

Address: 銅鑼灣開平道1號 Cubus 10樓
10/F, Cubus, 1 Hoi Ping Rd, Causeway Bay

Phone:  +852 25688708

CIAK [Hong Kong] - Everyday Italian Dining by Chef Umberto Bombana, at Two HK Locations

  CIAK was opened by Chef Umberto Bombana of Michelin 3 Star 8 1/2 Otto e Mezzo's fame,  aimed to be a smart casual, almost trattoria style Italian Dining for everyday dining.  This is a concept which is popular nowadays within Italy and Europe, where a Fine Dining restaurant is accompanied by a more relaxed restaurant accessible for customers on a regular basis.  CIAK received a Michelin 1 Star rating itself,  and subsequently CIAK also opened another branch in Taikoo City,  which is also awarded with a Bib Gourmand status.  I have periodically enjoyed quite a few dishes here and than are shown below,  but here is a glimpse of some of their offerings for your reference.

Fermented Dough Bread with Olive Oil -

The bread, like the pizzas here, are artisanal and well hydrated with overnight fermentation

Wagyu Ragu with Tagliatelle Pasta - $140 (Small)

This came with plenty of meat ragu, which has been cooked until it's almost gelatinous - in comparison with the versions I eat in Bologna in my visits, this is more on the lubricated side.  The wagyu beef flavour is actually quite pronounced,  and needs a glass of red Italian wine to pair with,  and surprisingly there wasn't much herbs taste beneath.  Pasta was cooked to the perfect degree.  ~  8.0/10

Spaghetti Carbonara with Guanciale, Eggs, Pecorino Cheese and Black Pepper - $130 (Small)

A few foodies believe this is the best, traditional recipe Carbonara pasta in Hong Kong.  I agree,  as each strand of pasta is evenly coated with a melted cheesy and eggy sauce,  with the almost fried guanciale pork cheek pieces crispy and fragrant with rendered fat.  I personally think this is not as seasoned as I expect,  so despite the look it could be even saltier and carry more cheese,  as per the ones served in Rome.  If you want another great authentic tasting Carbonara in town,  you can also try out Tom Aiken's The Fat Pig version,  which is similar in a sense but slightly heavier.  ~ 8/10

36 Hours Fermented Dough Pizza,  the Norcina with Pork Sausage & Mushrooms -

I have had the full round size,  or this Pizza by the Slice al taglio style many times,  and it remains one of the best pizza's in town.  The dough has a wheaty taste from the careful fermentation,  and despite the abundance of melted cheese on top,  the sausage meat and mushrooms always stand out.  And per slice is only $58 and makes for a good lunch option.  ~ 9/10

Chorizo & Tomato Tagliatelle -

This is eaten at the Taikoo's CIAK All Day Italian outside,  which serves some simpler pasta's at the open tables.  It's priced around the $78-88 dollar range and is quite affordable for a Michelin grade Italian venue.  Obviously,  dining inside at the finer tables is more sophisticated, but customers can get to choose on the day of dining.  ~ 6.9/10

All Day Focaccia's Sandwiches -

This is the Wagyu Beef version,  which was served in Taikoo but nowadays has been replaced with other flavors,  and occasionally I chomp on a vegetarian version with peppers and pumpkin.  Priced at the $58-68 range,  it even comes with a salad and soup during Lunch hours.  So for a Bib Gourmand or Michelin 1 Star rated venue,  you can still grab a decent affordable lunch.

Tiramisu -

There are two versions served here,  this one is the take out version.  It also happens to be the best Tiramisu I have ever had in Hong Kong,  to the point I rated it above 8 1/2 Otto e Mezzo's own tiramisu.  Nowadays they are only making an eat in version in the main dining area,  but apparently this works on rotation and I wished they brought this recipe back to the open tables section since sometimes, we all just want a casual relaxed meal and a great dessert made very well to finish!

CIAK In The Kitchen, Central  (Michelin 1 Star) :
Price:  HKD $58 to $500 + 10%
Food:   ♕♕♕♕ to ♕♕♕♕♕
Address: Shop 327-333, 3/F., The Landmark, 15 Queen's Road, Central
中環皇后大道中15號置地廣場中庭3樓327-333號舖
Ph:  25228869



CIAK All Day Italian, Taikoo (Michelin Bib Gourmand) :
Price:  HKD $58 to $500 + 10%
Food:   ♕♕♕ 1/2 to ♕♕♕♕♕
Address: 太古太古城道18號太古城中心2樓265號舖
Shop 265, 2/F, Cityplaza, 18 Taikoo Shing Road, Tai Koo
Ph:  21165128

Yakiniku Kagura 燒肉火藏 [Hong Kong] - Michelin Recommended Hokkaido "Farm-to-Table" Yakiniku arrives in Hong Kong

  Yakiniku KAGURA 燒肉 火藏 hails from Hokkaido,  where it is the recipient of a 2017 Michelin Guide Bib Gourmand status.  The Hong Kong outlet inside Elements Mall is its first overseas store,  and we came here as a media/online bloggers tour to learn more about their 'Farm to Table' Concept.  For example,  the type of Branded Hokkaido Mirai Wagyu Beef they use here (未来めむろ牛) is raised on the farm directly by the 4th Generation CEO of Kagura,  and other notable produce such as their Potatoes are sourced directly from Hokkaido Tokachi farms affiliated with the group and none of the produce has undergone GMO changes.  Note that the 'Mirai' Brand Beef here is actually an F1 Mix Breed between Japanese Wagyu x Holstein DNA,  which the CEO explained is because their family wanted a beef which is balanced with intramuscular marbling fat with actual red meat,  this selling point must also be taken into consideration since they do not pertain to sell melt in your mouth,  highly marbled beef here.  Their Japan Website for more info:  http://www.y-kagura.jp/index.html

Whisky Cocktail in Copper-plated Cups -

Minced Meat Salad $78 -

This came with some Pears and Cucumbers, and leaves of Romaine Cos lettuce.  It was almost like a Thai Laab Moo Salad,  but cleaner without the herbs and spice.

北海道十勝尾藤農產薯仔沙律 - $58

Potato Salad with Hokkaido Tokachi Bito Farm Potatoes, 2 Textures

The potatoes as mentioned,  are farmed in a specific farm in Hokkaido's Tokachi area.  Hence Yakiniku Kagura advertises that they have a 'Farm to Table' Concept,  especially when their beef are sourced the same way.  This trend seems to be prevalent in Japan and other overseas countries lately..

北海道未來牛 - $420
Hokkaido Mirai Beef Platter, with 4 Cuts:
There's Filet, Karubi Short rib, Rump and Rosu Loin.  The F1 Cross-breed Wagyu x Holstein is slightly more redder and meatier,  and stands out from some other Yakiniku shops which concentrate more on the marbling fat.  I actually prefer this style for everyday meals,  and this meat platter is mostly Shio Dare or salt based marinated to keep the naturalness.

CEO's Favorite is Mirai Beef Filet -

One of the leanest cuts in a Cattle,  the marbling here is intricate and fine.  Yet predominantly still red meat based.  It is this ultimate balance which the 4th Generation CEO of Kagura seeks himself..

Karubi Short rib -

This is the most popular Karubi cut synonymous with Japanese Yakiniku, since the cuisine was adapted from Korean BBQ which also cooks their Galbi.  Often the measuring stick for a Yakiniku house,  this was tender yet carried a bite.  Almost perfect to my liking and goes best with white rice.

Flame Grill -

The leaner meats take shorter time to cook.  The fattier cuts with more marbling insulation actually take longer to cook.  This is Yakiniku 101 lesson which often needs reminding,  since our minds seem to think its the other way around and not to overcook the evenly marbled meat!

五日市 かみこみ豚 ロース

Kakikomi Pork Loin - $138

This was very flavorful and also tender,  also from Tokachi area.  There is only around 3 pigs for every 100 which are classified for this grading. 

五日市 かみこみ豚 - $128

Kakikomi Pork Belly with Miso

This was thinly sliced, and in fact this is one of the most famous ways to serve Hokkaido Pork,  which is Tokachi Obihiro's Signature Pork on Rice.  Here it is served as DIY yakiniku but it is recommended that you consume rice with this..

Chicken Thigh from Iwate Prefecture - $98

The thigh is not overly marinated with soy sauce, tare sauce or miso, which I prefer for chicken so we could taste their natural flavors.  This was more on the leaner spectrum, which I personally like.

A4 Japanese Wagyu with Sukiyaki Egg Sauce - 日本和牛野原燒 HKD $108

This A4 Wagyu deviates from the above Mirai Beef,  as it is a full blood wagyu.  Done in a recently trendy trendy way of cooking yakiniku,  it is quickly seared and then dipped into the Japanese raw egg and sukiyaki sauce.  Now this time,  this was more fattier and melted in the mouth... Wished I could have a few more of these.  The positive thing about this cooking method?  It is flame licked so imagine all the good things about a Sukiyaki,  but with the surface carrying the charred aroma.

Yakiniku x Sukiyaki Style,

a method to cook this A4 Wagyu is a trend nowadays ..

Gratinated Hokkaido Tokachi Bito Farmed Potatoes with Mozzarella Cheese
(北海道十勝尾藤農產) - $78

Gratinated Hokkaido Potatoes, again from the specific farm directly.  Diced into thick cubes and in a white creamy sauce, the mozzarella was melted well and aromatic.  A must order item here,  it's like an adult's version of Potato Dauphinoise Gratin with a bite.

Almond Tofu - $32

A Japanese-Chinese dessert often to end the meal, this carried some Yuzu zest to balance the blanched almond flavors, to finish up the meal.

The Hokkaido based Yakiniku Kagura -
with Hokkaido Michelin Bib Gourmand 2017

Prices are very reasonable here, considering it's pedigree, the Farm to Table concept, as well as the location inside Elements Mall.  It is already quite popular despite having just soft opened for a few days.  Definitely worth to come back personally,  because one thing that stood out was their cross-bred Wagyu x Holstein.  Many restaurants sell F1 to F2 Wagyu's in the world,  but you can see from the meat and marbling distribution pattern that these are high quality F1 Wagyu's deliberately farmed for this specific purpose,  and it won't be overly greasy after the meal, and they are all Natural and safer to eat without additional hormones and antibiotics.

Price: HKD $200 to $400 Per Person + 10%  (Media/Blogger Preview Tasting with Kagura)Food: ♕♕♕♕ 1/2

Address: Shop 1086, 1/F, Elements, 1 Austin Road West, Tsim Sha Tsui
Ph: +852 26823913