Ledoyen - (Paris)

  One of the oldest institutions in Paris’s Haute Cuisine fine dining scene,  I locked in this restaurant to visit and after a 2nd try was finally granted my wish.   After consulting friends and foodies who visit Paris frequently,  it was interesting many of them also mentioned 2 Starred Le Cinq as the place to be at.   I definitely had that on my agenda as it has a sister restaurant in Caprice in Hong Kong,  but after visiting the highly regarded Paris (Le Meurice ***) last trip around,  and on a later trip trying out the controversial Japanese-inspired  (Sur Mesure by Thierry Marx **) plus previous places before my time of taking food pics,  I decided to trust my instinct and give Ledoyen a chance as I had a feeling it is old school yet also silently reinventing the Parisian  dining trend!   I have got to say this meal by Chef Christian Le Squer was simply perfect from start to the end,  there was a weighted balance between sensibility,  classiness, execution, taste and meal planning  – having tried out some of the fussiest restaurants in Europe before here or after,  I really enjoyed this French Classical style dining with a modern mentality.  Yes you need to wear your full suit, tie and polished shoes.  Haute Cuisine might be currently out of fashion in France,  it seems to be falling back on more Casual Bourgeois Cuisines or Modern French dining styles like its surrounding neighbouring countries…  but I still loved here with my own reasons,  and the kitchen and whole team is definitely proud of their food here. 

 

Ledoyen Restaurant -
Close by to Champs Elysees…  about 5-10 minutes walk towards the East, opposite a Lenotre.

 

Ledoyen by Night -

 

2006 Domaine Michel Niellon,  Chassagne-Montrachet Premium Cru -
I don’t usually take wine notes,  it’s just me as a foodie rather than a wine expert,  but I also respect those who drink a lot and take down details for other’s reference!   I just enjoy the moment and put the trust on being exploratory with the Sommelier’s choices because I enjoy serendipity in dining.  I liked this White Burgundy.. How did they guess right?   ~  Euro 20,00

 

Wine List -
Can tell there are some impressive offerings,  looking through the pages.  

 

The Space is Grand,  every Dining Guest was dressed up in Suits ~
In the midst of summer.   If they respect my stomach,  I will happily return the courtesy to the other guests and the restaurant as usual.   It had better be worth me sweating in my suit..








Champagne Cart -

 

Amuse Bouches of:
Campari and Orange Ginger Bubble,  Comte Cheese Puff with Cepe Mushrooms,
Bruleed Foie Gras with Raspberry Sandwich,  Vegetable Roll with Poppyseed..
They look good and they tasted equally great.  I especially liked the spoon of Campari with Orange Ginger bubble as it was so appetizing and I was told to eat from this order.   ~  10/10

 

Radish and Squid Ink Chips -
This is interesting,  because it instantly reminds me of my meal at El Celler de Can Roca (Spain).  And also Becasse (Sydney) which unfortunately closed due to over-expansion of the empire.

 

 

Au Bon Beurre -
The bread offerings were expectedly great,  you can count on it when eating in France but forget it when you eat in HK except for places like Caprice and Petrus, or Robuchon Macau.  I thought a previous butter encounter at equally 3 Starred Le Meurice was  already the bomb, yet this was less cowy but more sophisticated in finish.  I asked the maître d' who makes their butter here?  He showed a big shock on his face and explained it’s just normal Au Bon Beurre from a local farm associated with the restaurant naturally...  If I could just get such great quality produce butter at my disposal >.<   Crazy good  ~  12/10

 

 

Beef Jelly Consomme and Horseradish Granite,  Peas and Beef Mince -
For summer, another lovely starter and quite intense.   

 

Grosses Langoustines Bretonnes, Emulsion d’agrumes -
Blanched Brittany Langoustine with Citrus of Lemon, Orange and Grapefruit, Coriander & Olive Oil Emulsion.  2nd half of Langoustine  encased in a fried Kataifi pastry.  With Seaweed crisp and Jelly beneath.   I really liked this dish for balance and perfect execution.  

 

 

 

Blanc de Turbot de Ligne juste Braise, Pommes Rattes Truffees -
The most amazingly cooked Turbot which was silky smooth, sweet, translucent you would have thought this was Toro.  It’s so not turbot in texture at all.  Came with Truffles,  Squid ink crumbs and buttery Potatoes covered in a Beurre Blanc sauce & foam that tasted almost chestnuty.   









2010 Condrieu by Domaine Christophe Pichon -
I actually don’t usually drink 100% Viognier,  it normally over-whelms my senses too much but the Sommelier knows wines 10 thousand times than I do and it’s a Condrieu afterall.  And if he says so,  I will happily oblige to test!   Lovely

 

 

Ris de Veau en Brochette de bois de Citronnelle Rissolee,  Jus d’herbes -
Another signature at Ledoyen,  this is the best Sweetbread I have ever had in my life by far.  It was covered in a Sweetbread Crumb,  brochetted with 2 lemongrass stalks,  and served with a herbs sauce and Broad Fava beans and Peas.  Cooked perfectly just barely under well-done and for once I could actually taste the organ too.  And this was huge!  This was only half portion and it was fist sized already.  Didn’t know Sweetbread organ can be presented so huge lol!

 

Cheese Trolley -

 

Cheeses from different Affineurs to suit -
These were obviously excellent and eaten at prime condition and unlike certain places,  not served when over-the-hill.  Had a Crottin Chauvignon, 36 months Comte, Livarot,  and a cheese from Toulousse, also a cheese they called Quebrea.

 

Walnut Bread -
Lovely

 

 

Yeast Ice Cream, White Caramel Sheets and Egg White meringue -
I am actually surprised by this dessert as both look and formula was so Avant Garde,  Nouveau French cuisine.  I have got to say the yeast ice cream was sublime with that notable yeasty note and so were the white edible caramel sheets. 








Mignardises -
I find that in Europe Mignardises are not confused with Petits Fours, which come after the meal with coffee. This was served on an edible Meringue plate.

Mango Brioche with Raspberry,  Crème Brulee & Basil Truffle, 
Toasted Rice Rocher, Strawberry & Lemon mousse tart.. 
Ummmm…  I miss this a lot.   >.<

 

 

Campari Dill and Basil Croustillant, 
Citrus Sorbet,  Grapefruit marinated in Honey & Lemon Juice,  Confit Pink Grapefruit -
I will be lying if I said this wasn’t once again a foodgasm level dessert.   This was just so right..

   

 

Chocolate & Caramel Dessert and Chocolate Crumbles,
Lait Mousse and Crispy Caramel -
This looked simple compared to the above few desserts but it was perfectly executed.  The chocolate wasn’t bitter but alive with fruitiness,  the caramel had aroma and salt.  The milk mousse balanced it all and I loved the thin caramel crisp layers. 

 

 

Sugar with my over-extracted Espresso -
I like the sugar lollipop.  Little details such as these make you feel like you wore a freaking Suit or Tuxedo to dine here for a reason.   As for the espresso,  I guess by default it’s made Lungo style in France,  Spain,  Portugal, etc.    (But not extracted this longggg…  )

 

Petits Fours -
I think these only come if you order Tea or Coffee.  Some restaurants in Europe charge you like 15 Euro extra for these,  especially in Holland.   These Chocolates with nuts and Salted Caramels were perfect again.  You just can’t fault this 220 Years Old restaurant.

 

Kouign Amann and Caramelized Pecans -
I asked for the bill and out came this modernised version of Kouign Amann which was SOOO frigging good,  it was better than the Pierre Herme version I ate.   But this was a folded-over version,  not the scroll-like traditional one deliberately.  1st of all,  Chef  Christian le Squer is actually a Breton himself and he deliberately served this at the end of the meal to showcase his origins.  2ndly,  he did this Kouign Amann in his own interpretation.   I am very glad I came to his restaurant to eat.  Everything from start to finish was amazeballs and full of hidden thoughtfulness.

 

 

It’s 220 Years Old already -
But the food definitely isn’t.  This was one of the most complete and perfect meals from start to finish I have eaten.   What also surprised me too is that in the Ledoyen Decouverte tasting course, there were 3 savoury and 3 dessert courses for Euro 210 plus taxes and Wines.  They put 50% emphasis on the sweet dishes.   I don’t know if I do agree but the desserts were definitely wow and up there.

 

 

 

Price: Euro €265 including 2 Wines and Water
Ease of Access:   3/5  (Walk along Champs-Élysées street,  opposite Arc de Triomphe direction)
Food: ♕♕♕♕♕ - ♕♕♕♕♕♕  (Look for the small details and perfect execution, and silent reinvention of French Haute Cuisine)

Address: 1, Avenue Dutuit, Paris, France (Champs-Élysées)
Ph: 01 53 05 10 01